The Vatican is cutting costs; notable tailor to popes, Gammarelli, is facing financial difficulties.
In a surprising twist, the venerable Gammarelli workshop, established in 1798, finds itself on the sidelines for a first time ever. The Vatican, in an unexpected turn of events, has decided not to entrust them with the duty of crafting the three traditional white cassocks meant for new popes – a tradition that dates back at least to the beginning of the 20th century.
As our Sud Ouest colleagues report, these cassocks, available in large, medium, or small sizes, are typically tried on by the newly elected pope a few minutes after his elevation. However, this year, that tradition will not be upheld.
"In the bereavement following Pope Francis' demise, the consoling thought was that we'd be making the clothes for the new pope," laments Lorenzo Gammarelli, expressing a touch of disappointment. "We've been dressing each and every pope since at least the early 1900s," he adds. But this time, "the Vatican informed us they had taken care of it," the 52-year-old owner of the workshop explains, joined by his three cousins in running the store near the Pantheon.
The Vatican's decision to forgo new cassocks could signal that the new pope's clothing will be the ones used in previous conclaves, as the Vatican only used one of the three Gammarelli-made cassocks each time. Some speculate this may be a request by Pope Francis, who was known for rejecting excess and waste, and was buried in modest attire.
When is the Next Conclave Scheduled?
While the Vatican has traditionally requested fewer than three garments as they could have some available, this is the first time it has not requested any at all. It's possible that the Vatican has a sufficient stock of unworn cassocks from previous conclaves, and they wish to honor the late pope's preference for simplicity. Gammarelli customarily prepares three cassocks based on cardinal measurements, but no new order was placed for the upcoming conclave. Historical precedents, such as Pope John XXIII's era, show the Vatican occasionally reuses existing vestments or adjusts traditions.
Around this article, explore topics related to Pope's Clothing and the unique bond between Gammarelli and the papal family.
- The Gammarelli workshop, known for dressing popes since at least the early 1900s, was unexpectedly left out this year, as the Vatican decided to forgo new white cassocks for the new pope.
- unlike previous traditions, the new pope's clothing is likely to be reused garments from previous conclaves, reflecting Pope Francis' preference for simplicity and rejection of excess.
- The fashion-and-beauty business of Gammarelli, established in 1798, faces a shift in their lifestyle, given the Vatican's decision not to place a new order for the upcoming conclave's cassocks.
- The financial implications of this change for the Gammarelli business, which has been intertwined with the papal family for centuries, are still uncertain, signaling a transition in their long-standing relationship.
- The principle of honoring the late pope's simplicity preference and reusing existing vestments, rather than creating new ones by traditional tailors like Gammarelli, might set a new trend in the fashion-and-beauty industry related to papal clothing.
